It’s no secret that Fashion and Apparel is one of the most polluting and unethical industries in the world. And with the urgency to reverse the environmental damages, it is difficult to know where to start. The rise of social media and online interaction with ethical and environmental issues has gone through the roof in the last 10 years and with that comes ease of access to information for an ever-curious global consumer market.
The issue of Animal Cruelty is one of many, but using animal fur is arguably one of the more prominently discussed topics. But just how ethical is the go-to alternative, faux fur?
Angora is a luxury fibre that once dominated the world’s fur industry with China holding a monopoly on its manufacturing. In the process of extracting fibres to use for hats, coat detailing, scarves and many other items, Angora Rabbits are kept in crowded, dirty and non-regulatory conditions.
A particularly disturbing article from PETA (1), a widely recognised animal cruelty prevention association, shows how the fibres are extracted. The animals are said to have their fur ‘plucked’ or ‘sheared’ off and their bodies ‘stretched’ to stop them struggling. One farmer that was interviewed in the article said that 60% of the rabbits die within a year from shock or distress.
Angora Rabbit Fur Cruelty, Official PETA India for You Tube.
Fashion conglomerates H&M, Espirit, C&A and New Look are among those that have renounced the use of Angora fibres in their clothing lines, along with hundreds of established designer brands that vow never to use fur in their collections.
In an article for The Guardian (2), Tansy Hoskins gives a simple solution to a problem that most consumers are unaware is even happening;
‘Harvesting angora without harming rabbits is a slow labour of love, incompatible with industrial capitalism. In this sense it should be a scarce fabric, rather than something cheaply produced.’
But just how much better is the alternative?
Whilst it fixes the ethical misconduct that comes with treating animals so inhumanely, the production of faux fur raises a whole other issue. The fabric is made with petroleum-based chemicals which is a non-renewable resource and contributes to carbon emissions. Additionally, it is typically made from acrylic which takes hundreds of years to bio-degrade and raises the problem of synthetic micro fibres shedding when in the wash.
Keith Kaplan, director of communications at the Fur Information Council of America (3) argues that fur farming ‘helps manage wildlife populations and provides a continued livelihood for many indigenous communities’. He also supports the argument against synthetic alternatives, stating that ‘petrol-based plastic fur is extremely harmful to the environment. It isn’t biodegradable. It’s harmful to wildlife.’
Both arguments have valid and evidenced points. From a consumer perspective, it is relative as to which issue is more concerning to the individual. It ignites a incentive to explore the truth behind the supply chain and research the companies, such as People Tree (4), that prioritise animal welfare and environmental responsibility. Consumer demand is what shapes the industry, and with a shift in social attitudes towards Corporate Social Responsibility and Ethics, sustainable clothing will become the affordable alternative.
References
(3) George-Parkin, H. (2018). The Fur Sustainability Debate: Is Real or Faux Better for the Planet?. [online] Fashionista. Available at: https://fashionista.com/2018/04/real-faux-fur-sutainability-ethics-debate [Accessed 23 Nov. 2018].
(2) Hoskins, T. (2018). A cruelty-free angora rabbit fur trade may be incompatible with fast fashion. [online] the Guardian. Available at: https://www.theguardian.com/sustainable-business/sustainable-fashion-blog/cruelty-free-angora-rabbit-fur-fashion-peta-footage [Accessed 23 Nov. 2018].
Berlin Tomorrow News. (2018). Luxury Brands Are Slowly Turning Against Fur – and Versace Is the Latest. [online] Available at: http://berlintomorrow.com/2018/03/15/luxury-brands-are-slowly-turning-against-fur-and-versace-is-the-latest/ [Accessed 23 Nov. 2018].
(4) Peopletree.co.uk. (2018). People Tree. [online] Available at: https://www.peopletree.co.uk/ [Accessed 23 Nov. 2018].
(1) Secure.peta.org.uk. (2018). The Agony Behind Angora Wool. [online] Available at: https://secure.peta.org.uk/page/17620/petition/1?locale=en-GB [Accessed 23 Nov. 2018].
Ethical Fashion 